Perfect for hands-on homeowners — but fair warning, it’s not for the faint-hearted!
Planning to pave your driveway, patio, pool area, or garden path yourself? If you’re someone who enjoys a challenge and doesn’t mind getting your hands dirty, this guide will walk you through how to install pavers using the rigid mortar bed and slurry method — a professional, long-lasting system used for solid, stable finishes. This isn’t your average weekend job — it requires patience, care, and attention to detail. But if you’re up for it, you’ll learn how to do it the right way.
💡 This guide is written for homeowners paving their own property only. It does not cover the adhesive tiling method, and it’s not suitable for professional jobs or third-party installs. If you’re unsure, it’s always best to contact a professional before you begin.
What Is the Rigid Mortar & Slurry Method?
This method involves:
- Pouring a concrete slab
- Spreading a mortar bed over the slab
- Applying a cement slurry (bonding layer) before placing each paver
- Filling the joints with grout
- Sealing the surface (especially for natural stone)
It’s ideal for:
- Driveways
- Pool surrounds
- Outdoor kitchens & BBQ areas
- Alfresco zones
- Sloped or terraced spaces
What You’ll Need
- Washed river sand
- General-purpose cement
- Water (preferably with a garden hose — for mixing, compacting, and post-install cleaning)
- Rubber mallet
- Trowel or shovel
- Spirit level
- Straight edge or screed
- Scooper (for applying cement slurry)
- Cement (for slurry)
- Grout or joint filler (regular or coloured)
- Sealer (if using natural stone)
- Brick saw, angle grinder, or concrete saw (for cutting pavers)
- Sponge, broom, and bucket for cleaning
Step-by-Step Instructions
1. Excavate the Area
Dig out enough depth to allow for:
- A 100–120mm concrete slab
- A 20–30mm mortar bed
- Your paver thickness (usually 20–60mm)
Level the ground. For better drainage, you can add a thin crushed rock base layer between 20mm and 75mm, compacted well using water.
2. Pour the Concrete Slab
Pour a reinforced slab using mesh. Ensure a fall of 1.2–2%, sloping away from buildings and toward a drain. With rigid paving, drainage is essential — water has nowhere to escape unless planned for.
🔧 Include expansion joints at structural edges (e.g. next to buildings or steps) and fill them with flexible mastic to prevent cracking.
Let the slab cure for at least 7 days before continuing.
3. Apply Slurry to the Slab & Mix the Mortar Bed
Before spreading the mortar, prepare a bonding slurry directly on top of the concrete slab:
- Lightly wet the slab
- Sprinkle a thin layer of neat (dry) cement
- Hose it lightly to form a wet slurry film
- This acts as a key between the slab and mortar bed
Then prepare your mortar bed:
- Mix 4 parts wet washed river sand to 1 part general-purpose cement
- The mix should be mid-wet — damp and workable, not too dry or too sloppy
- Screed small sections (1–2m² at a time) and check levels with a spirit level, following your intended fall
4. Apply the Bonding Slurry (Between Mortar & Paver)
Before placing each paver:
- Mix cement and water into a smooth, thin slurry (no sand)
- Use a scooper to apply a 1–2mm layer of slurry on top of the mortar bed
🧱 This second slurry layer is crucial — it bonds the paver to the mortar bed. Without it, pavers may lift or sound hollow over time.
5. Lay the Pavers
- Gently place each paver onto the slurry-coated mortar
- Tap into place with a rubber mallet
- Use a spirit level to maintain alignment and slope
- Ensure even spacing for grouting
🧽 You may sponge off excess mortar or slurry from the surface as you go — but do not hose or scrub until the entire area is complete and tamped down.
Once finished, lightly hose and broom the surface clean.
6. Fill the Gaps (Grouting)
Wait 24–48 hours after laying.
- Fill joints with a sand and cement grout, or a coloured grout to match your pavers
- This locks pavers in place, prevents weed growth, and gives a polished finish
- Wipe off any residue straight away to avoid grout haze
7. Seal the Surface (Optional but Recommended)
If using natural stone (e.g. travertine, limestone, granite), sealing is essential. Use a penetrating sealer to prevent stains, moisture, and UV damage.
Sealing is optional for concrete or porcelain pavers but is still beneficial in exposed or high-traffic areas.
Final Notes
This guide provides a clear overview of how to lay pavers using the rigid mortar and slurry method — best suited for confident DIYers ready to take on a big project.
✅ At Outdoor & General, we don’t just supply the materials — we’re experienced installers too. If you’d prefer to have your paving installed professionally, our in-house team can handle everything from start to finish.
Need Materials or Professional Installation?
We offer:
- Natural stone, porcelain, and concrete pavers
- Bedding sand, cement, grout, slurry tools and sealers
- Complete installation services by our own trusted team
Visit us or get in touch today — whether you’re going the DIY route or handing it over to the pros, Outdoor & General is here to help you pave with confidence.



